6.12.2008

Back on track..



Originally uploaded by An Smith
The only sound in Stonetown at the moment is the constant hum of power generators. The power went out just over three weeks ago and rumours are that it could be more than two months before it gets switched back on and a sense of normally returns. It means that water prices have doubled, petty crime is on the increase and normally meagre incomes are being spent on things such as petrol, kerosene and candles. Surprisingly, as Zanzibar prepares itself to head into high season, I haven't found that many businesses have increased prices (perhaps a ten percent petrol charge on your bill is the most you will find) and it seems that life is resuming as normal. I think about the drama we experienced a few years back after our epic four day 'black-out' but in fairness power outages here are common place (just not for this long). Let's say Zanzibar experienced a snow storm - now that would create drama! It's all about what you're used to I guess. You adapt and move on, but especially in the developing world where 'discomfort' is a daily event. In the west (and more developed nations) we live as conveniently and comfortably as possible. Any small change to that and we completely freak out!

I've just returned to Zanzibar after a few weeks in Malawi and a road trip through the south of Tanzania by car. Well, actually, "by car" is a bit impersonal. Her name is Mavis and she's a tough lil 'ol white four door Toyota with the determination to drive a significant portion of Africa's pot-holed dirt roads. We met her driver - an Aussie by the name of Will - and he was on his way to Dar and was looking for company and a share on petrol costs so we gladly accepted. Will had already travelled through about half a dozen countries in southern Africa and was just getting to the end of his journey (Arusha to teach for a few months) when we met him. Him and Mavis were my BFF's for about eight or nine days as we wandered through random African cities, enjoyed spectacular scenery along the way and even camped on the edges of a wildlife park for a few nights freezing our butts off and trolling for animals during the day. No radio leads to great conversation and overall.. a fantastic trip! Him alone (one of the more real and honest people I've met in a long time) actually helped to salvage the end of my disastrous trip this far (erm, I'll get to that part in a minute). Again, Tanzania always manages to completely blow my mind with the diversity and beauty of the landscape and seeing it by car just makes it that much better (not to mention toilet breaks are unlimited! amazing!). I was reminded again why Denise and I 'stopped' travelling to get to know this country better.

This trip, overall, has been pretty long and random for me. I've been homesick the entire time (a first for me) and my mental attitude sucked as I spent almost five weeks on my butt and hobbling around on crutches after breaking my foot two weeks into my trip. I was more than lucky to have friends like Mardia and AJ who did their best to keep me amused and carried me great distances, helping me with just about everything (guys - you're awesome - thank you again!). When you come to a place for two and a half months intent to really give photography a go it's mildly spirit breaking when you spend most of it on your back watching movies! Anyway, things are looking up. I did re-hurt my foot in Malawi and it seems to be acting up a bit.. but I'm almost home and that means good doctors and hospitals.

At the moment I feel back to my old self. I'm really enjoying being back in Stonetown and trying to enjoy the last few days as much as possible. Mardia is working her butt off trying to get the restaurant re-opened and we've got friends arriving tomorrow morning for a quick Mwanza reunion before I fly out on Sunday.

xx

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