So it turns out that the five star hotel doesn't take our kind. They wouldn't let us swim!!! Talk about being on the other side of the counter for once. Instead we went to the mall and had free makeovers. Denise looked *more* like a drag queen than I did because they gave her a look that involved purple eye shadow and bright pink lipstick. Mine was a tad more natural but still had a little something special to it. Didn't stop us from dancing around the mall (yeah, like a real air conditioned mall) to Dirty Dancing and Guns and Roses tunes while scarfing down scoops of Baskin and Robbins ice cream. MMMM. We had pizza for lunch (um, and breakfast) and we had Ruby Tuesdays for dinner. Veg burger and fries for me and a veggie quesadilla for Denise. No free pop refills. So it was easy to waste the day in the end. Fun also :) We realize we are going a tad crazy (just in general).. mind you not AS crazy as the guy on the train (a westerner) who had a really serious conversation on his banana phone.
Now we are in Hampi. It's hot in Hampi and there are giant round boulder rocks everywhere you look. And on those rocks there are ruins. It's cool! We went to look for the waterfall today (where you can swim) but again.. no waterfall! We have terrible luck with waterfalls on this trip! So instead we "swam" in this rock infested slimy oozy pool filled with fish and full of lots of different crevices you can squeeze through and slide around on. I say "swim" only as a reference to the fact that we were immersed in water. I don't think frantically splashing your arms while your feet are up around your knees sliding over oozy rocks and guiding your way counts as *swimming*. Then us and the new BFF's (only for the day though and maybe tomorrow) we met at the same oozy pool went on an 'adventure' to get to a restaurant by climbing the boulders instead of taking the road (like normal people). It took us about 3 hours of scaling, praying, jumping, crossing rivers, hoping there were no snakes, avoiding the cows and buffalo and sweating profusely in the mid day sun. Then we ended up running from giant fire breathing dragons through a banana plantation and then scaled the rice fields. However, we made it to a cute restaurant and the view made it all worth it.
3.22.2007
Homeless again :D
We arrived in Bangalore this morning at 4:30am!! Ya. Like AM. And our train doesn't leave until 10:30pm. Two over nights in a row and lots of time in between..ugh. Although, overnight trains are so fun and in India they are even more fun when you are the only tourist (you usually are) and everyone takes you under their wing to make sure you get off at the right place and are seeing the best places in India (so cute) and basically want to know your life story in a nutshell or take apart your headlamp with mild fascination.
Today we are being totally cheap and rather than get a sleaze bag hotel for the day we decided to freshen up in a scuzzy washroom at the station and store our bags in a locker. *And to note that when I say scuzzy I mean the ultimate in grossness. At home I wouldn't go inside this type of washroom for fear of immediate death or touching something that would cause your hand to fall off or at the very least turn strange colours.. of course when travelling it's a totally different story, and you feel as if you are immune to gross!! Well, probably cause we tend to be ON the gross side of the scale 98% of the time.*
Anyway, we brushed our teeth, splashed water in the right places, washed faces.. you know. That kind of stuff. Tried not to breath deep. Wandered around, pretended we were rickshaw Nazis, grumbled about how the city of Bangalore must not have realized we were arriving and therefore they forgot to roll out the red carpet and open stuff for us at the time we needed it. Very rude.
So here we are. We plan on spending $5 and going to the best 5 star hotel in the city and sleeping by the pool for the remainder of the afternoon. This fun has to wait while I finish backing up my Thailand pictures (taking forever - full time job, so time consuming - violins playing..) but at least this time I'm doing it to MY flickr account instead of some other persons whom I've never met. They must have been really pleased when they found all 200 of my pics in their account. Duh.
We spent the last 6 days in Mamallapurnam being lazy cows. A holiday within the trip perhaps :) We had a pool and a TV and we didn't move. We ate, we met amazing people and we suntanned. We didn't even really shop. No sightseeing. Unfortunately the orphanage thing got totally muckered up (but not for reasons previously discussed!!). I got sick, the driver was never free.. that kind of thing. Wasn't meant to happen I guess. The pool at our guest house was rank (lots of dead mozzies in the pool and dead crows hanging in the trees.. i suppose in an effort to scare away the crows? The town is nuts; it's like out of a Hitchcock movie and semi deserted because it is low season; throughout the day there are thirty crows flying over head squawking away.. very creepy. So we paid $2 to go to the nice clean dead-crow-free pool every day).
We met this amazing man by the name of Swamiji when we were there. He truly is a nomad in every sense of the word - he has travelled a lot of the world and does not have a home. He never has. He is probably in his forties (my best guess) and was born completely blind. He is a devout Buddhist and dedicates his life to helping people.
I can't imagine a harder place to grow up blind (with no family or education geared to your needs or social services to help you) - in a country with crazy roads, sketchy planks to get you over gutters (with icky stuff in them) from one broken sidewalk to the next, traffic that means you get out of the way fast or you get hit. He has the most adventurous spirit and is one of the most intelligent (self taught!!) people I've ever met. He can swim confidentely in a pool, has gone parachuting, tried jet skiing (mind you briefly), owns a digital camera (he loves to do the kind of shots where you all squeeze in while he holds the camera infront and tries to guess where we all are.. so cute) and even emails (he gets people help with that part.. we helped him type some stuff to friends and read him the replies). He actually won a photo contest once for the legally blind and he says that the spirit and soul of the people he meets is in the camera :) Refreshing to meet someone so determined to live his life as best as he can without letting a small thing like being blind get in his way.
Today we are being totally cheap and rather than get a sleaze bag hotel for the day we decided to freshen up in a scuzzy washroom at the station and store our bags in a locker. *And to note that when I say scuzzy I mean the ultimate in grossness. At home I wouldn't go inside this type of washroom for fear of immediate death or touching something that would cause your hand to fall off or at the very least turn strange colours.. of course when travelling it's a totally different story, and you feel as if you are immune to gross!! Well, probably cause we tend to be ON the gross side of the scale 98% of the time.*
Anyway, we brushed our teeth, splashed water in the right places, washed faces.. you know. That kind of stuff. Tried not to breath deep. Wandered around, pretended we were rickshaw Nazis, grumbled about how the city of Bangalore must not have realized we were arriving and therefore they forgot to roll out the red carpet and open stuff for us at the time we needed it. Very rude.
So here we are. We plan on spending $5 and going to the best 5 star hotel in the city and sleeping by the pool for the remainder of the afternoon. This fun has to wait while I finish backing up my Thailand pictures (taking forever - full time job, so time consuming - violins playing..) but at least this time I'm doing it to MY flickr account instead of some other persons whom I've never met. They must have been really pleased when they found all 200 of my pics in their account. Duh.
We spent the last 6 days in Mamallapurnam being lazy cows. A holiday within the trip perhaps :) We had a pool and a TV and we didn't move. We ate, we met amazing people and we suntanned. We didn't even really shop. No sightseeing. Unfortunately the orphanage thing got totally muckered up (but not for reasons previously discussed!!). I got sick, the driver was never free.. that kind of thing. Wasn't meant to happen I guess. The pool at our guest house was rank (lots of dead mozzies in the pool and dead crows hanging in the trees.. i suppose in an effort to scare away the crows? The town is nuts; it's like out of a Hitchcock movie and semi deserted because it is low season; throughout the day there are thirty crows flying over head squawking away.. very creepy. So we paid $2 to go to the nice clean dead-crow-free pool every day).
We met this amazing man by the name of Swamiji when we were there. He truly is a nomad in every sense of the word - he has travelled a lot of the world and does not have a home. He never has. He is probably in his forties (my best guess) and was born completely blind. He is a devout Buddhist and dedicates his life to helping people.
I can't imagine a harder place to grow up blind (with no family or education geared to your needs or social services to help you) - in a country with crazy roads, sketchy planks to get you over gutters (with icky stuff in them) from one broken sidewalk to the next, traffic that means you get out of the way fast or you get hit. He has the most adventurous spirit and is one of the most intelligent (self taught!!) people I've ever met. He can swim confidentely in a pool, has gone parachuting, tried jet skiing (mind you briefly), owns a digital camera (he loves to do the kind of shots where you all squeeze in while he holds the camera infront and tries to guess where we all are.. so cute) and even emails (he gets people help with that part.. we helped him type some stuff to friends and read him the replies). He actually won a photo contest once for the legally blind and he says that the spirit and soul of the people he meets is in the camera :) Refreshing to meet someone so determined to live his life as best as he can without letting a small thing like being blind get in his way.
3.17.2007
India
This trip is so much more than "oh look, that is a statue of Gandhi: snap - there is a temple with ornate decoration: snap - let's make sure we do all the 'stuff' in the guidebook, check". That's why we left without a plan, without too much research and without onward flight tickets. So far it's turned into exactly what we wanted from the beginning which was spontaneity and real interaction and experiences with the people who actually make the places you are visiting what they are.
It's about being adopted by a family for a day and teaching them how to swim in the ocean or sitting on the floor of a shop for countless hours while drinking Masala Chai tea with the owner and discussing love vs. arranged marriage in India or being invited to celebrate the birth of a baby with a family you've only just met (by mistake when you stumbled in to their backyard party on your bike!!).
South East Asia is really 'easy' to travel in and you sort of feel like more of a giant dollar sign in really touristy places. Like one with flashing light bulbs that says I am really really rich please scam me (and in most cases in comparison we are really really rich)...anyway, we did consider it a warm up to India and Africa and admittedly we did do the route that everyone does. A giant circle throughout the countries, not much thinking, book the next tourist bus, close your eyes and go. Don't get me wrong, we had cool experiences along the way (I think SEA has changed a lot over the last ten years because of tourism).. but India (i am happy to say) is a different story.
I don't actually know where to start to describe India. Life here is louder, it's faster, it's full of colour and it's madly chaotic; more so than anywhere I've ever been in my entire life. Travel in India is not necessarily easy. The people in India are so friendly and part of what makes this country so addictive. People say that you either love India and can't wait to come back, or you hate India and can't wait to come back!! I completely get it.
It smells bad (we put tiger balm under our nose when it gets really bad), the men stare (which is harmless to a degree), it's really bloody hot and hygiene and cleanliness is questionable (if not disgusting in some cases - there is garbage and filth everywhere). However, the food is incredible (we oink out every night - the new love of my life is Parotta) it is stunningly gorgeous (tea plantations, mountains, temples, white sandy beaches, jungles.. they got it all and more) and the people are simply engaging.
It seems that within minutes of meeting someone you find yourself in one of the most genuine conversations that you've ever had. These people absolutely love to talk and are so charming. You leave feeling like you've known them for years because they are so open to tell you their story and about their family and jobs and their opinions on India (Western influence vs. tradition and spirituality). At the same time, they are equally as fascinated to learn about you and what life is like in Canada.
My last few weeks have been a whirlwind. I suddenly feel like the days are on fast forward mode because I don't know where they are going. We have done so many varied things from boogy boarding on the beaches in Goa (did I really just type boogy boarding??), being witness to a "secret" wedding (Muslim local boys meets Christian European girl makes secret Hindu wedding ceremony which ends up making the front pages of the local paper anyway and was coincidentally put together in only four hours), ice cream dates (grade eight styles), house boating, trekking in the jungle, boat rides to search for Tigers, trying to prevent the girls from being washed away in their saris because of the waves while holding their hands and taking them deeper into the ocean, being homeless and sleeping on the beach (best sunrise of our lives while locals did yoga..)...ya there is more but I know your all seethingly jealous so I will stop ;)
We honestly didn't realize how large and varied India is and we understand now that having two months is just not enough time! Each state (I think there are 17??) has it's own identity, it's own culture, it's own food and language.. it's impossible to choose what you want to do and see because it all seems fascinating and once you get somewhere it's hard to leave. I know.. poor me I only have two months :)
Unfortunately we have to cut our time in the south because it's getting way to hot. Even the locals are closing up shop and moving north.. we are following.
Tonight we are going to an orphanage to play with children and might bring them some candy, food, take photos... we actually have to check it out first before we do anything. We are hoping it's a 'real' orphanage because we were just told about the scams. The idea that corrupt orphanages exist blows my mind completely. Maybe I'm completely naive, I realize corruption with international charities is a huge problem. I never really thought about it on a smaller scale, nor using children as your tool. It's completely sick. So these places aren't actually orphanages at all.. more like a day care I guess. They have parents, maybe they are very poor, but the point is they are not orphans and money and gifts aren't for them. It's all a complete cover up. Westerners visit, they give money, they give food, they promise years of support and donations and think they are really helping out. Stupid them. The person who runs the faux orphanage lives in luxury, upgrades their home, buys a new car, nice clothes.. and uses the children to run it. I'm sure the families who send the children get a nice kick back (I can't blame them..but at the end of the day they are still the victims who are being used and have practically zero gain) I recently had a discussion with someone about using the word hate. I know it's a strong word but when you hear stories like that it becomes really easy to hate the people who are twisted enough to take advantage of others.
Anyway, I guess I will keep you posted, this blogging this is like a full time job :)
It's about being adopted by a family for a day and teaching them how to swim in the ocean or sitting on the floor of a shop for countless hours while drinking Masala Chai tea with the owner and discussing love vs. arranged marriage in India or being invited to celebrate the birth of a baby with a family you've only just met (by mistake when you stumbled in to their backyard party on your bike!!).
South East Asia is really 'easy' to travel in and you sort of feel like more of a giant dollar sign in really touristy places. Like one with flashing light bulbs that says I am really really rich please scam me (and in most cases in comparison we are really really rich)...anyway, we did consider it a warm up to India and Africa and admittedly we did do the route that everyone does. A giant circle throughout the countries, not much thinking, book the next tourist bus, close your eyes and go. Don't get me wrong, we had cool experiences along the way (I think SEA has changed a lot over the last ten years because of tourism).. but India (i am happy to say) is a different story.
I don't actually know where to start to describe India. Life here is louder, it's faster, it's full of colour and it's madly chaotic; more so than anywhere I've ever been in my entire life. Travel in India is not necessarily easy. The people in India are so friendly and part of what makes this country so addictive. People say that you either love India and can't wait to come back, or you hate India and can't wait to come back!! I completely get it.
It smells bad (we put tiger balm under our nose when it gets really bad), the men stare (which is harmless to a degree), it's really bloody hot and hygiene and cleanliness is questionable (if not disgusting in some cases - there is garbage and filth everywhere). However, the food is incredible (we oink out every night - the new love of my life is Parotta) it is stunningly gorgeous (tea plantations, mountains, temples, white sandy beaches, jungles.. they got it all and more) and the people are simply engaging.
It seems that within minutes of meeting someone you find yourself in one of the most genuine conversations that you've ever had. These people absolutely love to talk and are so charming. You leave feeling like you've known them for years because they are so open to tell you their story and about their family and jobs and their opinions on India (Western influence vs. tradition and spirituality). At the same time, they are equally as fascinated to learn about you and what life is like in Canada.
My last few weeks have been a whirlwind. I suddenly feel like the days are on fast forward mode because I don't know where they are going. We have done so many varied things from boogy boarding on the beaches in Goa (did I really just type boogy boarding??), being witness to a "secret" wedding (Muslim local boys meets Christian European girl makes secret Hindu wedding ceremony which ends up making the front pages of the local paper anyway and was coincidentally put together in only four hours), ice cream dates (grade eight styles), house boating, trekking in the jungle, boat rides to search for Tigers, trying to prevent the girls from being washed away in their saris because of the waves while holding their hands and taking them deeper into the ocean, being homeless and sleeping on the beach (best sunrise of our lives while locals did yoga..)...ya there is more but I know your all seethingly jealous so I will stop ;)
We honestly didn't realize how large and varied India is and we understand now that having two months is just not enough time! Each state (I think there are 17??) has it's own identity, it's own culture, it's own food and language.. it's impossible to choose what you want to do and see because it all seems fascinating and once you get somewhere it's hard to leave. I know.. poor me I only have two months :)
Unfortunately we have to cut our time in the south because it's getting way to hot. Even the locals are closing up shop and moving north.. we are following.
Tonight we are going to an orphanage to play with children and might bring them some candy, food, take photos... we actually have to check it out first before we do anything. We are hoping it's a 'real' orphanage because we were just told about the scams. The idea that corrupt orphanages exist blows my mind completely. Maybe I'm completely naive, I realize corruption with international charities is a huge problem. I never really thought about it on a smaller scale, nor using children as your tool. It's completely sick. So these places aren't actually orphanages at all.. more like a day care I guess. They have parents, maybe they are very poor, but the point is they are not orphans and money and gifts aren't for them. It's all a complete cover up. Westerners visit, they give money, they give food, they promise years of support and donations and think they are really helping out. Stupid them. The person who runs the faux orphanage lives in luxury, upgrades their home, buys a new car, nice clothes.. and uses the children to run it. I'm sure the families who send the children get a nice kick back (I can't blame them..but at the end of the day they are still the victims who are being used and have practically zero gain) I recently had a discussion with someone about using the word hate. I know it's a strong word but when you hear stories like that it becomes really easy to hate the people who are twisted enough to take advantage of others.
Anyway, I guess I will keep you posted, this blogging this is like a full time job :)
3.04.2007
Hammocks, Road Burn and Drinks with Umbrellas
One of my new goals in life is to spend more time in a hammock. They are the perfect mode for relaxation, specifically when placed beside the ocean between two palms. I'm not picky about it though. Beside the hut works for me also :)
We just spent the last (however many days we've been gone) island hopping around the south of Thailand. Our days consisted of sleep, eat, swim, read, sleep, swim, eat, read. We would rent motorbikes and tour the entire way around the island stopping at each and every beach for a swim. The rest of the time we snuck into private pools at smanschy resorts and hid underwater when the staff came around. Why not right?
It was the perfect end to our quick tour around South East Asia. It's crazy that we are flying to India tonight.. we actually stop in Sri Lanka to sleep and then arrive in Goa, India in the morning!
So besides two attempted robberies and one *mini* motorbike accident (and a lot of stubbed toes!!) we have zero complaints and zero traumas ... **The motorbike accident was embarrassing, almost not worth discussing ('cept Denise has a HUGE painful bruise on her foot). In Koh Phangan you see everyone walking around with broken limbs, road burn on their face, huge gashes. It's known as the Koh Phangan tattoo! The hills are huge and really curvy.. and everyone goes there and hops on and thinks they can handle it ... really nuts actually. We've walked everywhere since our mini crash :) No more motorbikes!
Time to chill and watch a move at a cafe in Bangkok then hit the airport...more updates soon.
xoxo
We just spent the last (however many days we've been gone) island hopping around the south of Thailand. Our days consisted of sleep, eat, swim, read, sleep, swim, eat, read. We would rent motorbikes and tour the entire way around the island stopping at each and every beach for a swim. The rest of the time we snuck into private pools at smanschy resorts and hid underwater when the staff came around. Why not right?
It was the perfect end to our quick tour around South East Asia. It's crazy that we are flying to India tonight.. we actually stop in Sri Lanka to sleep and then arrive in Goa, India in the morning!
So besides two attempted robberies and one *mini* motorbike accident (and a lot of stubbed toes!!) we have zero complaints and zero traumas ... **The motorbike accident was embarrassing, almost not worth discussing ('cept Denise has a HUGE painful bruise on her foot). In Koh Phangan you see everyone walking around with broken limbs, road burn on their face, huge gashes. It's known as the Koh Phangan tattoo! The hills are huge and really curvy.. and everyone goes there and hops on and thinks they can handle it ... really nuts actually. We've walked everywhere since our mini crash :) No more motorbikes!
Time to chill and watch a move at a cafe in Bangkok then hit the airport...more updates soon.
xoxo
Randy
Meet Randy. This kid haunted me for the entire three days we were in Siem Reap. Every time I looked down the lil guy was tugging at my arm with his big sad eyes, dressed in dirty pj's and his hair all crazy, holding his hat in his hand and asking for a handout. There was something about him in particular that stood out from the other kids - I still can't say what it was exactly!
Anyway, it got to a point that I couldn't handle it anymore. I kept telling Denise that if I saw him one more time I was going to absolutely lose it. He's only six years old, and his parents send him out all day and night to get money from tourists. We were told that it is quite common that kids will get a beating if they don't make enough money in the day.
Cambodia was a place that really hit me hard in a lot of ways. I actually felt how 'real' life is as opposed to the cushy lives we grew up in and are so accustomed to (and take for granted). It's not the first time I've seen poverty or been in a country with hardship but there was something about Cambodia that struck something in me and I think it was there amazing attitude and how full of life they are. The poverty, the disadvantages, the hardships these people have lived through..its right in your face. The happiness you see is what makes it so amazing. These people really stick together, they watch out for each other. They depend on each other for survival.
So back to Randy (actually, the way he says it: it is Rand EH kind of with a pause and a huge gruff excited emphasis on the EH part, haha cute..). You can't give kids money, it just encourages them and I also know the father is lurking in the alley or across the street waiting to take what he gets from the tourists. And besides, with all of the aid and charity organizations we saw all over in Cambodia it doesn't seem like there is an excuse to beg or to further encourage it. So instead of giving him money, we did the next best thing and bought him a giant bowl of ice cream. The smile on his face while he ate it was classic and he didn't hesitate for one second when I suggested the idea. He didn't say much while he ate and ran off quickly when he was done, immediately hitting up the next tourist in site for money, but he did hang close by us for the rest of the night.
The most amazing thing (and impressive) was that as soon as he sat down with us there was a police man and another man (who I assume was his father) immediately watching what was going to happen next. In a country where sex tourism is a such a concern it was nice to see that they had a genuine concern and reacted quickly when we showed interest in him. They were pretty happy about the ice cream for him - when they realized what was happening they sat back and relaxed.
So that was that. I left there wondering what was going to happen to him and to be honest he is still on my mind all the time. I hope he takes advantage of the aid programs that are offered everywhere in his country (and free education!).
With that said, if you are in Siem Reap and you see the lil guy, buy him an ice cream on me. He prefers vanilla to chocolate :)
Anyway, it got to a point that I couldn't handle it anymore. I kept telling Denise that if I saw him one more time I was going to absolutely lose it. He's only six years old, and his parents send him out all day and night to get money from tourists. We were told that it is quite common that kids will get a beating if they don't make enough money in the day.
Cambodia was a place that really hit me hard in a lot of ways. I actually felt how 'real' life is as opposed to the cushy lives we grew up in and are so accustomed to (and take for granted). It's not the first time I've seen poverty or been in a country with hardship but there was something about Cambodia that struck something in me and I think it was there amazing attitude and how full of life they are. The poverty, the disadvantages, the hardships these people have lived through..its right in your face. The happiness you see is what makes it so amazing. These people really stick together, they watch out for each other. They depend on each other for survival.
So back to Randy (actually, the way he says it: it is Rand EH kind of with a pause and a huge gruff excited emphasis on the EH part, haha cute..). You can't give kids money, it just encourages them and I also know the father is lurking in the alley or across the street waiting to take what he gets from the tourists. And besides, with all of the aid and charity organizations we saw all over in Cambodia it doesn't seem like there is an excuse to beg or to further encourage it. So instead of giving him money, we did the next best thing and bought him a giant bowl of ice cream. The smile on his face while he ate it was classic and he didn't hesitate for one second when I suggested the idea. He didn't say much while he ate and ran off quickly when he was done, immediately hitting up the next tourist in site for money, but he did hang close by us for the rest of the night.
The most amazing thing (and impressive) was that as soon as he sat down with us there was a police man and another man (who I assume was his father) immediately watching what was going to happen next. In a country where sex tourism is a such a concern it was nice to see that they had a genuine concern and reacted quickly when we showed interest in him. They were pretty happy about the ice cream for him - when they realized what was happening they sat back and relaxed.
So that was that. I left there wondering what was going to happen to him and to be honest he is still on my mind all the time. I hope he takes advantage of the aid programs that are offered everywhere in his country (and free education!).
With that said, if you are in Siem Reap and you see the lil guy, buy him an ice cream on me. He prefers vanilla to chocolate :)
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