3.17.2007

India


India
Originally uploaded by An Smith.
This trip is so much more than "oh look, that is a statue of Gandhi: snap - there is a temple with ornate decoration: snap - let's make sure we do all the 'stuff' in the guidebook, check". That's why we left without a plan, without too much research and without onward flight tickets. So far it's turned into exactly what we wanted from the beginning which was spontaneity and real interaction and experiences with the people who actually make the places you are visiting what they are.

It's about being adopted by a family for a day and teaching them how to swim in the ocean or sitting on the floor of a shop for countless hours while drinking Masala Chai tea with the owner and discussing love vs. arranged marriage in India or being invited to celebrate the birth of a baby with a family you've only just met (by mistake when you stumbled in to their backyard party on your bike!!).

South East Asia is really 'easy' to travel in and you sort of feel like more of a giant dollar sign in really touristy places. Like one with flashing light bulbs that says I am really really rich please scam me (and in most cases in comparison we are really really rich)...anyway, we did consider it a warm up to India and Africa and admittedly we did do the route that everyone does. A giant circle throughout the countries, not much thinking, book the next tourist bus, close your eyes and go. Don't get me wrong, we had cool experiences along the way (I think SEA has changed a lot over the last ten years because of tourism).. but India (i am happy to say) is a different story.

I don't actually know where to start to describe India. Life here is louder, it's faster, it's full of colour and it's madly chaotic; more so than anywhere I've ever been in my entire life. Travel in India is not necessarily easy. The people in India are so friendly and part of what makes this country so addictive. People say that you either love India and can't wait to come back, or you hate India and can't wait to come back!! I completely get it.

It smells bad (we put tiger balm under our nose when it gets really bad), the men stare (which is harmless to a degree), it's really bloody hot and hygiene and cleanliness is questionable (if not disgusting in some cases - there is garbage and filth everywhere). However, the food is incredible (we oink out every night - the new love of my life is Parotta) it is stunningly gorgeous (tea plantations, mountains, temples, white sandy beaches, jungles.. they got it all and more) and the people are simply engaging.

It seems that within minutes of meeting someone you find yourself in one of the most genuine conversations that you've ever had. These people absolutely love to talk and are so charming. You leave feeling like you've known them for years because they are so open to tell you their story and about their family and jobs and their opinions on India (Western influence vs. tradition and spirituality). At the same time, they are equally as fascinated to learn about you and what life is like in Canada.

My last few weeks have been a whirlwind. I suddenly feel like the days are on fast forward mode because I don't know where they are going. We have done so many varied things from boogy boarding on the beaches in Goa (did I really just type boogy boarding??), being witness to a "secret" wedding (Muslim local boys meets Christian European girl makes secret Hindu wedding ceremony which ends up making the front pages of the local paper anyway and was coincidentally put together in only four hours), ice cream dates (grade eight styles), house boating, trekking in the jungle, boat rides to search for Tigers, trying to prevent the girls from being washed away in their saris because of the waves while holding their hands and taking them deeper into the ocean, being homeless and sleeping on the beach (best sunrise of our lives while locals did yoga..)...ya there is more but I know your all seethingly jealous so I will stop ;)

We honestly didn't realize how large and varied India is and we understand now that having two months is just not enough time! Each state (I think there are 17??) has it's own identity, it's own culture, it's own food and language.. it's impossible to choose what you want to do and see because it all seems fascinating and once you get somewhere it's hard to leave. I know.. poor me I only have two months :)

Unfortunately we have to cut our time in the south because it's getting way to hot. Even the locals are closing up shop and moving north.. we are following.

Tonight we are going to an orphanage to play with children and might bring them some candy, food, take photos... we actually have to check it out first before we do anything. We are hoping it's a 'real' orphanage because we were just told about the scams. The idea that corrupt orphanages exist blows my mind completely. Maybe I'm completely naive, I realize corruption with international charities is a huge problem. I never really thought about it on a smaller scale, nor using children as your tool. It's completely sick. So these places aren't actually orphanages at all.. more like a day care I guess. They have parents, maybe they are very poor, but the point is they are not orphans and money and gifts aren't for them. It's all a complete cover up. Westerners visit, they give money, they give food, they promise years of support and donations and think they are really helping out. Stupid them. The person who runs the faux orphanage lives in luxury, upgrades their home, buys a new car, nice clothes.. and uses the children to run it. I'm sure the families who send the children get a nice kick back (I can't blame them..but at the end of the day they are still the victims who are being used and have practically zero gain) I recently had a discussion with someone about using the word hate. I know it's a strong word but when you hear stories like that it becomes really easy to hate the people who are twisted enough to take advantage of others.

Anyway, I guess I will keep you posted, this blogging this is like a full time job :)

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