The only sound in Stonetown at the moment is the constant hum of power generators. The power went out just over three weeks ago and rumours are that it could be more than two months before it gets switched back on and a sense of normally returns. It means that water prices have doubled, petty crime is on the increase and normally meagre incomes are being spent on things such as petrol, kerosene and candles. Surprisingly, as Zanzibar prepares itself to head into high season, I haven't found that many businesses have increased prices (perhaps a ten percent petrol charge on your bill is the most you will find) and it seems that life is resuming as normal. I think about the drama we experienced a few years back after our epic four day 'black-out' but in fairness power outages here are common place (just not for this long). Let's say Zanzibar experienced a snow storm - now that would create drama! It's all about what you're used to I guess. You adapt and move on, but especially in the developing world where 'discomfort' is a daily event. In the west (and more developed nations) we live as conveniently and comfortably as possible. Any small change to that and we completely freak out!
I've just returned to Zanzibar after a few weeks in Malawi and a road trip through the south of Tanzania by car. Well, actually, "by car" is a bit impersonal. Her name is Mavis and she's a tough lil 'ol white four door Toyota with the determination to drive a significant portion of Africa's pot-holed dirt roads. We met her driver - an Aussie by the name of Will - and he was on his way to Dar and was looking for company and a share on petrol costs so we gladly accepted. Will had already travelled through about half a dozen countries in southern Africa and was just getting to the end of his journey (Arusha to teach for a few months) when we met him. Him and Mavis were my BFF's for about eight or nine days as we wandered through random African cities, enjoyed spectacular scenery along the way and even camped on the edges of a wildlife park for a few nights freezing our butts off and trolling for animals during the day. No radio leads to great conversation and overall.. a fantastic trip! Him alone (one of the more real and honest people I've met in a long time) actually helped to salvage the end of my disastrous trip this far (erm, I'll get to that part in a minute). Again, Tanzania always manages to completely blow my mind with the diversity and beauty of the landscape and seeing it by car just makes it that much better (not to mention toilet breaks are unlimited! amazing!). I was reminded again why Denise and I 'stopped' travelling to get to know this country better.
This trip, overall, has been pretty long and random for me. I've been homesick the entire time (a first for me) and my mental attitude sucked as I spent almost five weeks on my butt and hobbling around on crutches after breaking my foot two weeks into my trip. I was more than lucky to have friends like Mardia and AJ who did their best to keep me amused and carried me great distances, helping me with just about everything (guys - you're awesome - thank you again!). When you come to a place for two and a half months intent to really give photography a go it's mildly spirit breaking when you spend most of it on your back watching movies! Anyway, things are looking up. I did re-hurt my foot in Malawi and it seems to be acting up a bit.. but I'm almost home and that means good doctors and hospitals.
At the moment I feel back to my old self. I'm really enjoying being back in Stonetown and trying to enjoy the last few days as much as possible. Mardia is working her butt off trying to get the restaurant re-opened and we've got friends arriving tomorrow morning for a quick Mwanza reunion before I fly out on Sunday.
xx
6.12.2008
Malawi
When you cross the border from Tanzania to Malawi there is this immediate sense of calm. The lack of infastructure indicates a life of simplicity and peace that is perfectly idylic in it's solitude. The yellow-green hills are dotted with mud brown huts, typical of east african countries i've visited, yet the the difference here is intangible. The towns seem less hectic and are noticebly vacant of the crumbling 1970's architecture i've become used to seeing everywhere. Local busses are new with floors that don't have gaping holes and the entire structure doesn't threaten collapse at every grumbling turn!! I've witnessed a few manicured round-abouts and a few garbage cans scattered around (mind you, they are empty but it is a start!).
We bought a direct bus ticket from Dar Es Salaam (Tanzania those of you who are geography challenged) to Lilongwe (south part of Malawi), a twenty-seven hour journey. Our intention was travel south to north along the lake stopping for a few days in each place to check it out. We arrived at 4am (for our scheduled 430am departure) and we were immediately informed that buses in Tanzania do not legally leave until 7am and that is when we would be leaving as well. Rolling our eyes and craving the extra two hours of sleep we pulled up chairs to wait, wondering why we'd been told 430am just the day prior. Africa!!! An hour into our journey and the bus conductor is handing us a $15 refund explaining that the bus will no longer be travelling to Lilongwe and that they would drop us off at the border. Twelve hours later and a dozen of us are standing on the side of the road, scratching our heads and waiting for a Dala Dala ride to the border crossing, not having a clue where we are but 'assuming' we are close. Three bumpy and mushed hours later, after picking up just about every Tanzanian, their cousin and their chickens we arrived (at 9pm in the pitch black!) to the border. Which, of course, is closed. Anyone who has done an African border crossing by foot knows that even in broad daylight it can be a harrowing experience. Border towns run rampant with thieves, pick-pockets, scam artists and all of the above who are trying to persuade you to exchange currency at black market rates. So here we are, two white girls with backpacks and no clue where to stay, what to do or who to trust. Twenty people are pulling us in every direction trying to convince us to climb on their bicycles (to go where exactly?). I can't see a single thing in the darkness. A few tomato stands are lit by candles and that is virtually the only light. Luckily, a Malawian who had been riding with us realized our situation and quickly escorted us to a guest house where he assured us we would be safe and taken care of (which was the case) before he resumed his journey.
We ended up crossing the border the next morning and headed to Nkahta Bay to relax for the week and decided we'd had enough of buses and relaxing by the lake would be preferable! The lake itself is incredible. It's the colour of an ocean and it's so clear that you can go snorkeling and diving in it with great visibility. It's also filled with tons of colourful fish (blue, yellow, spotted, stripped.. you name it) which was so cool for a lake! My week there was enjoyable but frustrating, as I managed to re-hurt my foot so spent most of my time lazing and reading. I guess I shouldn't complain!
We bought a direct bus ticket from Dar Es Salaam (Tanzania those of you who are geography challenged) to Lilongwe (south part of Malawi), a twenty-seven hour journey. Our intention was travel south to north along the lake stopping for a few days in each place to check it out. We arrived at 4am (for our scheduled 430am departure) and we were immediately informed that buses in Tanzania do not legally leave until 7am and that is when we would be leaving as well. Rolling our eyes and craving the extra two hours of sleep we pulled up chairs to wait, wondering why we'd been told 430am just the day prior. Africa!!! An hour into our journey and the bus conductor is handing us a $15 refund explaining that the bus will no longer be travelling to Lilongwe and that they would drop us off at the border. Twelve hours later and a dozen of us are standing on the side of the road, scratching our heads and waiting for a Dala Dala ride to the border crossing, not having a clue where we are but 'assuming' we are close. Three bumpy and mushed hours later, after picking up just about every Tanzanian, their cousin and their chickens we arrived (at 9pm in the pitch black!) to the border. Which, of course, is closed. Anyone who has done an African border crossing by foot knows that even in broad daylight it can be a harrowing experience. Border towns run rampant with thieves, pick-pockets, scam artists and all of the above who are trying to persuade you to exchange currency at black market rates. So here we are, two white girls with backpacks and no clue where to stay, what to do or who to trust. Twenty people are pulling us in every direction trying to convince us to climb on their bicycles (to go where exactly?). I can't see a single thing in the darkness. A few tomato stands are lit by candles and that is virtually the only light. Luckily, a Malawian who had been riding with us realized our situation and quickly escorted us to a guest house where he assured us we would be safe and taken care of (which was the case) before he resumed his journey.
We ended up crossing the border the next morning and headed to Nkahta Bay to relax for the week and decided we'd had enough of buses and relaxing by the lake would be preferable! The lake itself is incredible. It's the colour of an ocean and it's so clear that you can go snorkeling and diving in it with great visibility. It's also filled with tons of colourful fish (blue, yellow, spotted, stripped.. you name it) which was so cool for a lake! My week there was enjoyable but frustrating, as I managed to re-hurt my foot so spent most of my time lazing and reading. I guess I shouldn't complain!
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