A year later - GULU Walk Update

I miss this blogging thing. It's just that when I don't travel I don't find words.

(Not to say that I haven't travelled in the last year - I have - let's not talk crazy... but nothing had me emotionally riled up which is I guess where I find my words most times).

Anyways, I just wanted to talk about something that's REALLY exciting that is finally happening, confirmed and details sorted (well, mostly).

Four years ago I went to a documentary film about a place called Gulu. Let's just summarize the situation there as "hell". Your typical senseless war involving children, rape, murder and innocent people. Totally ignored by the world.. where on earth is this Gulu place right? So needless to say I was touched, fascinated, angered (read my very first blog) - so I researched, I learned and I visited..and now all this time later (on October 16th 2009) I will be presenting the opening event for the walk with my first photography exhibit. The gallery is on Queen West (like really West - Parkdale. So trendy ;)). I will be exhibiting my photography from the IDP camps and helping GULU through fundraising and creating more awareness.

I hope. I'm pretty excited and nervous. Mostly I'm nervous nobody will come and I'm trying to think up creative bribery to get you all there... I'll keep you posted... more details to come.

In the meantime do as I say:
1. open your day planner
2. turn to October 16th
3. get out a PEN (no pencils)
4. Write "Gulu Fundraiser"
5. Close the day planner
6. Stand on your head..(I'm going to far right?)

xx
Andrea

Back on track..

Originally uploaded by An Smith

The only sound in Stonetown at the moment is the constant hum of power generators. The power went out just over three weeks ago and rumours are that it could be more than two months before it gets switched back on and a sense of normally returns. It means that water prices have doubled, petty crime is on the increase and normally meagre incomes are being spent on things such as petrol, kerosene and candles. Surprisingly, as Zanzibar prepares itself to head into high season, I haven't found that many businesses have increased prices (perhaps a ten percent petrol charge on your bill is the most you will find) and it seems that life is resuming as normal. I think about the drama we experienced a few years back after our epic four day 'black-out' but in fairness power outages here are common place (just not for this long). Let's say Zanzibar experienced a snow storm - now that would create drama! It's all about what you're used to I guess. You adapt and move on, but especially in the developing world where 'discomfort' is a daily event. In the west (and more developed nations) we live as conveniently and comfortably as possible. Any small change to that and we completely freak out!

I've just returned to Zanzibar after a few weeks in Malawi and a road trip through the south of Tanzania by car. Well, actually, "by car" is a bit impersonal. Her name is Mavis and she's a tough lil 'ol white four door Toyota with the determination to drive a significant portion of Africa's pot-holed dirt roads. We met her driver - an Aussie by the name of Will - and he was on his way to Dar and was looking for company and a share on petrol costs so we gladly accepted. Will had already travelled through about half a dozen countries in southern Africa and was just getting to the end of his journey (Arusha to teach for a few months) when we met him. Him and Mavis were my BFF's for about eight or nine days as we wandered through random African cities, enjoyed spectacular scenery along the way and even camped on the edges of a wildlife park for a few nights freezing our butts off and trolling for animals during the day. No radio leads to great conversation and overall.. a fantastic trip! Him alone (one of the more real and honest people I've met in a long time) actually helped to salvage the end of my disastrous trip this far (erm, I'll get to that part in a minute). Again, Tanzania always manages to completely blow my mind with the diversity and beauty of the landscape and seeing it by car just makes it that much better (not to mention toilet breaks are unlimited! amazing!). I was reminded again why Denise and I 'stopped' travelling to get to know this country better.

This trip, overall, has been pretty long and random for me. I've been homesick the entire time (a first for me) and my mental attitude sucked as I spent almost five weeks on my butt and hobbling around on crutches after breaking my foot two weeks into my trip. I was more than lucky to have friends like Mardia and AJ who did their best to keep me amused and carried me great distances, helping me with just about everything (guys - you're awesome - thank you again!). When you come to a place for two and a half months intent to really give photography a go it's mildly spirit breaking when you spend most of it on your back watching movies! Anyway, things are looking up. I did re-hurt my foot in Malawi and it seems to be acting up a bit.. but I'm almost home and that means good doctors and hospitals.

At the moment I feel back to my old self. I'm really enjoying being back in Stonetown and trying to enjoy the last few days as much as possible. Mardia is working her butt off trying to get the restaurant re-opened and we've got friends arriving tomorrow morning for a quick Mwanza reunion before I fly out on Sunday.

xx

Malawi

Originally uploaded by An Smith

When you cross the border from Tanzania to Malawi there is this immediate sense of calm. The lack of infastructure indicates a life of simplicity and peace that is perfectly idylic in it's solitude. The yellow-green hills are dotted with mud brown huts, typical of east african countries i've visited, yet the the difference here is intangible. The towns seem less hectic and are noticebly vacant of the crumbling 1970's architecture i've become used to seeing everywhere. Local busses are new with floors that don't have gaping holes and the entire structure doesn't threaten collapse at every grumbling turn!! I've witnessed a few manicured round-abouts and a few garbage cans scattered around (mind you, they are empty but it is a start!).

We bought a direct bus ticket from Dar Es Salaam (Tanzania those of you who are geography challenged) to Lilongwe (south part of Malawi), a twenty-seven hour journey. Our intention was travel south to north along the lake stopping for a few days in each place to check it out. We arrived at 4am (for our scheduled 430am departure) and we were immediately informed that buses in Tanzania do not legally leave until 7am and that is when we would be leaving as well. Rolling our eyes and craving the extra two hours of sleep we pulled up chairs to wait, wondering why we'd been told 430am just the day prior. Africa!!! An hour into our journey and the bus conductor is handing us a $15 refund explaining that the bus will no longer be travelling to Lilongwe and that they would drop us off at the border. Twelve hours later and a dozen of us are standing on the side of the road, scratching our heads and waiting for a Dala Dala ride to the border crossing, not having a clue where we are but 'assuming' we are close. Three bumpy and mushed hours later, after picking up just about every Tanzanian, their cousin and their chickens we arrived (at 9pm in the pitch black!) to the border. Which, of course, is closed. Anyone who has done an African border crossing by foot knows that even in broad daylight it can be a harrowing experience. Border towns run rampant with thieves, pick-pockets, scam artists and all of the above who are trying to persuade you to exchange currency at black market rates. So here we are, two white girls with backpacks and no clue where to stay, what to do or who to trust. Twenty people are pulling us in every direction trying to convince us to climb on their bicycles (to go where exactly?). I can't see a single thing in the darkness. A few tomato stands are lit by candles and that is virtually the only light. Luckily, a Malawian who had been riding with us realized our situation and quickly escorted us to a guest house where he assured us we would be safe and taken care of (which was the case) before he resumed his journey.

We ended up crossing the border the next morning and headed to Nkahta Bay to relax for the week and decided we'd had enough of buses and relaxing by the lake would be preferable! The lake itself is incredible. It's the colour of an ocean and it's so clear that you can go snorkeling and diving in it with great visibility. It's also filled with tons of colourful fish (blue, yellow, spotted, stripped.. you name it) which was so cool for a lake! My week there was enjoyable but frustrating, as I managed to re-hurt my foot so spent most of my time lazing and reading. I guess I shouldn't complain!

Visiting the kids..

Originally uploaded by An Smith

Being back in Mwanza is very refreshing!! First of all, it's about 10 degrees cooler and there is no humidity so it is much more comfortable. I've had my best sleep here since arriving back in Tanzania. The noises are familiar to me. The Maasai playing with the ring tones on their phones and making strange noises, singing, laughing.. talking endlessly about who knows what. Shuffling along in the mornings while they sweep the sand and that damn Rooster. Won't someone just eat it? Please. Eat it. I can't believe it's still alive!!

I forgot just how cold the water is in the shower at the house in Buswelu. The tank on the roof doesn't seem to get the sun during the day so it doesn't warm up. Getting in there first thing in the morning takes balls, and I don't normally mind cold showers when it's hot out.

The children were happy to see me, excited.. confused!!! Shy!!! Curious!!! I could describe it in many ways but at the end of the day it's so great to have come back to suprise them.. they are super confused about where Denise is because to them we come together so despite me trying to explain that she is in England and will come to see them one day they don't really get it and still chant her name (together with mine) when I walk into the compound. Super adorable..

A lot has changed since we left and again, nothing at all. I expected the kids english to be a bit better than it is, but I don't think they have had consistent teaching since the six months that we have left (actually, the kids complained to me that they aren't getting taught anymore).

Also, the electricity is still not running (despite it being paid for with receipts to prove it). Apparently the 'bribe' was not high enough. Yup, despite paying for it we didn't bribe enough to actually be high on the list for the electricity to be connected so we are still waiting. Everything is in place and it's been wired.. but (as Leo famously stated "this is Africa"). It leaves a bitter taste in my mouth but Joel assures me that he will get a credit on the rent when they move out, so essentially the money went to help with paying the rent for the orphanage. I'm okay with that. I guess. I'm not sure what else I can be.. In the meantime they have organized solar panels which will ease the cost of the fuel needed to run the generator.

Last time I was here we had to come to peace with the fact that when you get involved in something like this it won't be perfect.. but I can assure you that the children are happy and they are going to school and in my mind that's the most important two factors.

Beaches, Rainbows and Christmas Cards..

Originally uploaded by An Smith

I love the drive back from the beach to Stonetown (we just spend the weekend at Kendwa beach resort). The drive is only about an hour and it's the best if you do it an hour before sunset so you have that perfect soft golden light touching everything as you wind your way past the villages to town. Today in particular it is beautiful because it's raining but the sun is still shining and the sky is clear. There is a perfect rainbow arching over us as we weave along the road; both ends disappearing into a jungle of dense palms far off in the distance. A few small children, about six years old, are walking in a line down the road. They are using giant palm leaves, as big as they are, like umbrellas in a futile attempt to keep dry. They are totally drenched! I saw them earlier this morning playing in a field. Same palm leaves to sheild themselves. Still soaking wet!

The steet is busy, people are walking and bicycling in every direction. Going to mosque or coming home from a visit with family or from work. I have no idea. Two boys sit on the back of a makeshift wagon with one wheel which is being pulled by a donkey. They look incredibly amused with themselves and have an empty cart. Likely they are finally on the way home after a long day of delivering firewood or fruit. Or something.

Back in Stonetown we are treated like the tourists we appear to be, despite the fact that everyone I am with lives and works on the island. The colour of our skin makes us a constant target. They have surrounded our car as we get out and are trying to sell us spices, cd's and necklaces. "Crack-pot Harry" is trying to sell us a Christmas card. It's the only thing he has. I laugh to myself wondering where on earth he picked it up and again at how funny it is that he is trying to peddle 'Seasons Greetings' in the middle of April on the predominantly Muslim island of Zanzibar. (In hindsight, perhaps I should have bought it). In any case, I am soaking wet and still covered in sand from our day at the beach and look a bit out of place standing in the middle of town while Mardia haggles our taxi rate for the day.

The 'other' local crazy decides to follow us as we find our way home and is temporarily thrown off his plan of action when we split into two groups heading in different directions. He's mumbling incoherent Kiswahili to us but decides to follow Katie and I. We loose him moments later as we (while laughing) kick it up a notch and start into a sprint and dodge around a few corners and through alley ways to find our street where we live. He's totally harmless but there is no need for him to know where we live. That's the thing about Stonetown though. After a few days here they know who you are, where you stay, if you have a nice camera and laptop and what your daily routine is. It's a little bit unnerving at times, but if you're smart you should be fine.

I am home now to pack because tomorrow I'm heading to Mwanza to visit the children. I can't wait to see them but I still have some weirdness about the fact that this time I'll be there without Denise! It's ridiculous that I'm actually craving Kuliana's pizza and rolls just as much as the roasted corn and rice and beans that I can get in Buswelu Corner for pennies. I will have to hold out on the mendozi with chocolate bars and sugar dip because (as tempting as it is) it just isn't right without Denise, Suzy and Jessica to ease my indulgant guilt!!!

My first two weeks back in Africa have been really, really (I stress again the really part) relaxing. I spent my first week trying to adjust to the time difference, the heat and the noise. Getting my travel legs back I guess. Unfortunately, my second week was spent sick which threw me for a loop! I'm used to having more of an iron stomach from all of the travelling but I guess it's not as tough as I thought it was!